I’ve had a few requests for more details on the body kit. I’ll let you know what I’ve learned and what I’d recommend. First I set the body on jacks so there was no movement and then leveled a base platform at the bottom front. Then I built top and bottom wood frame for the bumper and glued blocks between the bases and filled in the spaces with 1/4″  foam board. After finishing the base I began covering it with Fixall. It was a good product to use. Very little shrinkage and easy to work with. As I mentioned earlier I didn’t like the way the first front turned out so I started over. 

I found it very difficult to work with the wood frame if I wanted to make any changes and I liked using the foam board. It was light, easy to cut, shape and glue and I could make changes along the way with ease if I didn’t like the result. Good thing I did because when I switched from the Cobra design back to the Pacer front it was fast and simple. After applying and shaping the plaster I began my mould. I first had to cover the bumpers and flares with Gel coat, release agent and then two coats of wax. In the end I still had to tear the mould apart just to get the final product out. Always remember when building your kit that it has to come out of the mould and since the mould is not flexable your angles must be such that it will slide out like a ice cube from its tray.

The next step was to build the mould over the mock up. Here’s my recomendation. Take it to a fiberglass fabricator and have them make mould or at least shoot the final product. The mould could be expensive but to have it just shot is not too bad. I was told when you build the mould brace it well. I couldn’t emphasize this point enough. If you want a proper fit to the body after all your work is done make sure the mould will not move or flex, at all! Take whatever time you need to get this right or you will spend alot more time later getting it to fit.

As for the rocker panel pieces I used a 4″ ABS pipe, cut it in half and fit it to the flares. It was simple and could flex to the radius of the Pacer rocker and gave me the look of sidepipes.

Last, you’ll have to think about how you will mount your kit. I played it by ear as before because in the end I am just a novice trying to figure it all out along the way. That is my take. I’m sure their are other, easier and better ways to do it but that’s how I did it. I wasn’t to concerned about retaining the moulds because there was no plan to reproduce and market a kit for sale. I must say that the Pacer, as old a body style as it is, adapts pretty well to a modern look. I would hate trying to do it with a Gremlin, Pinto or Vega.